Last Day and Goodbye

            Seems like a very short trip.  We are already to our last day of touring and then we leave tomorrow, well, I do, quite early.  Others are here another couple of days and others are heading off to Singapore, Vietnam, Russia, and other points for further travel.  I would also like to be doing that except the tummy has not been happy yesterday and this morning so possibly just be good to get home.  Hubby and I are heading off to Santorini week after next anyway as we've never been.  So many islands, so little time.

           Plan today is to hit the Earthquake Memorial Mosque and then the Kow Ata underground lake and then the Gypjak Mosque and Mausoleum of the Turkmenbashi.  A group of 4 have headed off on their own to visit a village in the mountains, then the underground lake and mosques and then another village.  I would have loved to do that with them but the car only holds 4, tightly, and I wasn't quick enough to nab a spot on the journey so that is out for me.  And I am pretty tired too even though our new soft beds in the hotel were much, much nicer.  Next time here, I must remember to ask for a suite.

         The Earthquake Memorial Mosque is kind of a sham, really.  It is a really big mosque but rather sterile and our guide says it doesn't really get used very much.  It's kind of out of the way and not surprising that people don't visit it a lot.  However there were attendants there who were busy sweeping the courtyard.  Argentina managed to get the workers inside to sit in the corner in the sunlight and take their photo.  He seems to excel in getting people to agree to do things for photos.  What a wonderful ability to have.  I've just gotten to the point where I can ask people so I think I am years away from dancing them into position for wonderful action shots and such as he does.

           I have still not decided whether or not to go swimming in the underground lake.  Last time there, I really didn't enjoy it much.  The entire site is a picnic area for families and such but I just couldn't help thinking that the lake looked very much like a pit of undesirable liquids of one sort or another.  It's a mineral lake which doesn't help the smell, being sulfur like and all.  Plus it's about 80 meters underground.  So the steps down are not so bad but coming up is the pits.  And last time there, the few lights on the stairs and at the entrance to the lake whet out so momentarily, I was in the water in total darkness until someone had a small flashlight that illuminated the exit of the lake and I was able to get out.  Some people really like that and swim through the arch to follow the lake into total darkness.  I did get up this morning though and put on my swimsuit and I had also brought my dive light along with me, just in case.  But our tour leader had already commented that I would not be a popular person if I took the dive light into the water with me and ruined everyone's night sight.  SOOOO, when the time came, I decided not to go down to the lake and stayed outside in the shade reading instead.    It appeared that everyone else enjoyed it but I've decided that underground lakes are not for me.

             We are having lunch at Marat - a very nice restaurant nestled against some hills and hidden in some well watered trees.  Above the restaurant is a shallow pool with a giant ceramic vase acting as the waterfall feature but it was turned off when I walked up there.  Maybe they were like our hotel which has a wonderful swimming pool which they drained on Oct 1 because "the season is over" even though it's still in the upper 30'sC temperature wise.  Maybe all waterfalls are shut off on Oct 1.  So lunch was nice except for the tummy factor still not happy.

              Off to the Gupjak Mosque and the Mausoleum.  These I saw last time except the Turmenbashi was not buried there at that time.  He died a few months after my visit.  His family is in the mausoleum except his father who was not found after the earthquake so just a representative grave is there.  There are honor guards in front.  We had to leave our cameras and bags on the ledge outside the mausoleum and then take off our shoes once inside.  Then our guide, who is outside watching our stuff, calls that they are doing the changing of the guards.  Of course we are not allowed to rush outside to see so we all crowd the door to watch the tiny visible bit of guards goosestepping past the door.  Two of our group members had not made it inside yet and were outside the "no photo" barrier so they were able to take photos of the entire guard changing ceremony - lucky guys.

              We are above the gravesites.  There is an elevator going down to the marble coffin area and also a set of stairs going down.  Nothing was said about this until two of our group members,  in all innocence, took the elevator down and stepped into the room with the coffins and then our guide saw them and about had a heart attack.  That's a big no no, to be on the same floor as the coffins.  Luckily no one saw them do it but us.  guess they should disable the elevator unless they want people going down there.

            Back into the hot sun and over to the grand mosque which is the biggest in Central Asia.  It has quite a lot of writing around the outside and grandiose ornamentation.  This mosque is used a bit more than the Earthquake Memorial Mosque but still seems like it's a bit of a waste of time and money as it's still not that close to the city even though the city is straining to incorporate it and the city is growing in that direction.  But it is beautiful.

              Back to the bus and the tour is done.  We only have the farewell dinner this evening which I will miss because I hate farewell dinners and also because the tummy is saying no no no no.  Plus I have to wait for my carpets to be delivered and they did arrive albeit about an hour late.  I manage to get everything into my suitcase and do not have to unzip the extra space.

              We had been told at lunch our pick up times for the airport.  They said mine was 5:30 so I planned to get up at 5.  No sooner than my alarm went off and I got into the shower then the phone rang and my roommate said "your driver is waiting and getting nervous".  wow.  I didn't realize that they changed the time on me to a 5:00 a.m. pick up plus there were 3 other group members on the same flight.  I still made it downstairs at 5:20 and was quite embarrassed that everyone was waiting for me.  Still, we made it to the airport, went through the 3 security checks, had my carpet numbers verified, and went and sat in the lounge until the lady said it was for Turkmenistan airlines only and still had another 1/2 hour to sit in the departure area before our flight was called.

                So my time in Turkmenistan is done.  We didn't go to Mary and Merv this time and I missed seeing them.  I thought both of those places were quite interesting but I did love the gas crater in spite of the camping.  The city is so much bigger but not sure it is better.  Still rather sterile.  But very glad that Vancouver asked me along.  Now to work on getting to all of the other "''Stans".  I have a lot to do yet.

Pure Stud Lines - Ahal Teke horses

             We are leaving Dashoguz very early this morning, around 7 a.m. flight.  whew.  feels like I didn't get very much sleep at all!  So we stagger to the airport and thank goodness they have upgraded the airport since my last visit.  I remember the last time that we had to form a line where we went from one person sitting at a table to the next person at the table to the next person at the table, etc.  and they each checked our plane ticket and our passport before passing our plane ticket and passport on to the next person.  Now you just have to go through the security gates about 3 times and then you are in the departure lounge which thankfully has a toilet.  Last time there was no toilet once you had entered the departure area.    So nothing special about the flight back and then pick up the bags and off on the bus to see one of the last remaining pure bred horses, the Ahal Teke horses of Turkmenistan.  These are the horses we watched racing at the Hippodrome earlier in the week.   We are going to a private farm to see them.  OK, I know I am harping on the last trip I took here but my purpose of going on this trip was to see the differences and if I don't mention them, you won't know what they are.  SOOOOO, last trip, somehow we managed to snag an invitation to the President's Stud Farm, - yes, the President for Life, Mr. Turkmenbashy himself's farm.  wow.  what a privilege and our guide at the time made sure we knew it.  it was a magnificent farm with grandiose stables and the stable boys - oh yum.  Each also a wonderful specimen in the President's uniform with red and gold and almost knee high black boots.  Watching a trainer and a horse together was magnificent.  And they had a sort of big top circus ring where they did riding tricks for us and showed us some of the magnificent things the horses could do.  it was like watching a wonderful movie as the horses wove in and out of one another and did magnificent standing on their hind legs plus running around the ring in sync with each other.  quite impressive.

          Before we get far from the airport though, we stop at one of the new monuments in Ashgabat.  This is a solar monument so that the lights and water fountains and all are run by solar panels.  It is quite a nice monument but not all the water fountains were running.  As we are taking photos of the reflections and the monument, I notice one of the ubiquitous street sweepers is busy sweeping this roundabout.  She's in the middle of the road and cars are just going around her.  I hope she gets hazard pay.

           Since that President has since died, I wonder what has happened to his horse farm and all his wonderful trainers and horses.  Certainly someone is keeping the breed alive and well and racing.  This private farm we visited today had tables set up under a tent for us to have drinks and grapes and cookies. Quite nice and the tableware was elegant.  But no big top, just a dirt ring in front of the tables.  The trainers are still in uniform, kind of a frilly shirt and boots but not as magnificent.

           They bring out some of the horses and we are told how the horses have been coveted and desired over the centuries and how other horse loving people have not always believed the Ahal Teke horse was real because they kind of shine and glimmer in the light.  They are running the horses around the ring and our guide is telling us we can give them sugar so I grab a handful for each new horse that comes out and give them some sugar.  I love the feel of the horses lips on my palm. They are so silky soft.   Apparently I wasn't keeping my hand flat enough as one of the Belgium contingent told me I wasn't doing it right.  Never been afraid of horses and I've been kicked, bit, sat upon, and dumped many times so unless he was a horseman, rather pissed me off that he was telling me I was doing it wrong.  Oh well.  didn't stop me from continuing to give them sugar, just stopped me from letting him see me do it.  turned my back to him even if he was trying to take photos.  Hmmm, guess I needed to get that off my chest.

           I am sure they would have done this but I asked the trainer if they could make the horses "stand" - where they rear up into the air, just like the Lone Ranger's Silver (and no, haven't seen the new movie - thinking more of the old TV program).  Knew the horses could do this from the last time and it is quite impressive when they do it.   He had several of the horses do this.  The horses also apparently love to roll around in the dust.  Nothing quite so comical as seeing such a magnificent animal on its back with its legs kicked up and just rolling back and forth.

             The group makes one last quick stop to see the Lenin statue.  It's in a nice park and across the street from one of the security buildings which had a wonderful mural on it which was much more photogenic, I thought, than the Lenin statue.  The mural reminded me a lot of Catwoman and cartoon heroes.  Probably not what they were going for but it was what I thought.

           This was pretty much the plan for the day so we are back to the hotel and get our new rooms.  Vancouver and I scored big this time.   We get a suite that has two wonderfully non-hard beds and a small sitting room with a sofa and chairs and table.  Thank goodness the rooms went this way for us rather than going from good to worse.   People are making plans and turns out we are the only ones that want to go to the carpet man's shop.  A lot more people had seemed interested when we were at the market but now it is just the two of us.  Our guide and our tour leader are going to go with us.  Our tour leader because he likes carpets and likes to see them and our guide because he is the only one who can speak the language and knows where it is.   I believe this to be the man from whom I bought my two carpets in 2006 but he has moved out of the market and into a shop.  His shop is in a very fancy hotel, much more fancy than ours.  Could have contributed to the cost of the carpets rising.   He is more than happy to start throwing out carpets onto the floor for us to see.  Vancouver is interested in a creme colored one that is half carpet and half kilim.  gosh darn, that one looked very interesting to me too!  But I got lucky as she settled on a different one and I was able to get this one.  I also found one with some lovely blue in it.  Didn't want to get two red carpets again like I had last time.  Vancouver also picks a prayer rug.  Then we start the bargaining.  They are happy to ship but shipping costs much more than I want to pay plus we have to pay for the certificate.  Our guide is bargaining on my behalf but he forgets to ask what I want to offer so he offers a bit more than I would have.  I have to stand on that offer because I wouldn't have started there.  I would have been happy to finish there but it became my starting price as well.  The carpet seller and his daughter are having quite the discussion on the price but they finally agree to it.  We also decide that since I am traveling business class, I have enough room in my luggage and weight allowance that I can just take the carpets with me.  He guarantees that I will have the carpets in my hotel tomorrow night.

           Two of the other group members had asked about stamps and coins.  I had thought that I would like to go along with them.  Our guide has found a person that sells them at the market but he is not allowed to come to the hotel to sell so we have to go to him.  Again, our guide is going to take us as he feels it is part of his job plus it will be useful to him should some other tourists ask for the same thing.  But we can't find the couple who wanted to go so it ends up just being the two of us who go.  We flag down a car and he gives him the housing project area and off we go.  When we get to the area, my guide has to call the seller to come and get us because we'll never find his apartment.  There is a lady selling drinks at a both by the apartments but my guide tells me it wouldn't be safe for me to drink as he has no idea of the source of her water.  She has a faucet and squirts flavoring into a glass and people walk off with the drink.  My guide says he doesn't even buy from these street side kiosks.

            The stamp seller comes for us and of course, his apartment is on the top floor of a 5 story building.  Does no one ever live on the bottom floor when I go to visit???  He has books and books of stamps and wants to know what I am interested in because it would take hours to go through all of the books.  I tell him old Turkmenistan stamps and old Soviet-Turkmenistan stamps.  He pulls out some stamp books and I look through.  I find some lovely stamps and get a nice small collection together and we pay then go back to the street and find another car willing to take us back to the hotel.  He had a collection too of all the capital cities of the former Soviet countries:  Armenia, Georgia, Ukraine, Turkmenistan, Kazakhstan, Latvia, Lithuania,

and so forth.  He was only missing one so I bought that set.  Now I have to find the missing one.

            There is a small group that is going to the amusement park this evening.  I had thought to go along but I am so exhausted that I think I will just walk to the store and get some water and some snacks for dinner and then spent the night getting a good night's sleep so that is what I do.  Our last touring day is tomorrow and then we will be heading home or others will be touring off in other countries.  It has been an incredibly fast week.

Last view then goodbye to fire and gas

                  Sleeping on the mattress last night probably saved my back and hips but it was definitely hard to climb up out of the tent.  Felt like I was in a hole and thank goodness nobody was filming me trying to get to my feet.  Not sure how Vancouver does it as she's older than me but with no arthritis so guess that's the difference.   Roomie and I get up around 5:30 for one last call of nature and then she says she's going to go to the gas crater for sunrise.  I certainly would have been willing to try and get in the tent hole one more time for some more shut eye but sunrise is a better idea.  We grab our cameras and flashlights and start for the crater.   Amazingly, we are not the first ones to arrive.  Another of our tour members, S2 (we have two people with the same name), has set up his tripod and is waiting patiently for the sun also.  We circle the crater and then join him on the small hill above the crater.  It's getting lighter and lighter but not sure it is going to be a spectacular sunrise.  There is some wind and the dust devils swirl off the heated air above the crater and head towards the hill.  S2 has been trying to get a photo of them but without much luck.  His camera does this 3 shot composite thing that mine doesn't and I am so jealous of that ability of the camera to take 3 shots and put the colors and such together to make one super photo.  well, heck.  I'll do what I always do - just take more photos.

                More group members are coming over to the crater now.  It's light enough to be without the flashlight now and we can see them coming.  Another group had been camped here last night as well but they were already gone by the time we walked to the crater this morning.  Seems a shame to miss the sunrise.   And finally the sun pops up!  Not the best sunrise but still awesome over the gas crater.

                  There's a lot of activity over at the camp now and looks like people are up and taking down tents and such and I am ready for another call of nature so I say goodbye to the crater and head back to camp.  Pull out my air mattress and let it deflate and am busy putting my stuff away so we can pack it up in the car.   Breakfast this morning is a wonderful buffet of fruit and yoghurt in cups and coffee or tea.  OK, that's pretty much a joke but it was a good breakfast for the desert while people are staggering out of their tents and a few group members are still suffering from the late night party and drinking into all hours.  Snoring still issues from a couple of tents but eventually everyone staggers out into the daylight and has some food and packs up their stuff.  The drivers are much faster at dropping the tents and storing them away so we give up trying to help as basically we are just getting in their way.  Sometimes it's very nice to be waited on and be kind of useless.  Our tour leader tells everyone it's time to head out and if anyone wants a last look at the crater, we'll pick them up on the way out of the valley.  About half the group heads over - the half that wasn't over there for the sunrise.  And then it is time to get into the cars and start our convoy back to the city.  We ask to stop on the way back to get a photo of the camel crossing signs and the sand dune barriers built along the roadside.

                   The drivers misunderstood the "stop for a camel crossing sign" and after passing about 4 nice signs, we swerved to the side of the road as there were actual camels crossing the road.  This is what they thought we wanted to see.  Of course, that was a nice bonus and equally, of course, the camels were not crossing anywhere near a sign.  We also got some photos of the sand barriers.  These are squares of thick grasses or reeds that are built next to the road, blocks and blocks of them, that keep the sand off the road.  I jokingly told the other two group members in my car that the barriers were actually 7' tall and the 1 1/2' that we saw sticking out of the sand was all that was left exposed.  They believed me for about a minute.    Later we found a camel crossing sign to stop and take photos of it but the head had been shot off the camel.  So we had a headless camel crossing sign.  Shades of Sleepy Hollow.

              Outside of town the convoy stopped to wash the cars.  There is a law that cars cannot go about Ashgabat dirty.  We were pretty dirty having been in the desert and dusty and all but the car wash places were closed for some reason so the drivers had to wash the cars themselves.  Our driver was not very happy about that.  Took around 20 minutes and some more camels crossed the road while we were waiting.  Also a lovely outhouse with no roof and 3 walls was available to those of us who needed it.  I always need it.  Trying to position oneself over a hole while staying hidden behind a wall what opens onto a back street that seemed to have a lot of traffic was not one of my finest moments but one manages.

               The afternoon was free so suggestions were made for different museums and hiring of cars to go visit different sites.  I suggested the National Museum which I thought was really good and also the old fortress of Nisa which I visited last time.  My car mates and S2 all thought that sounded good as well so we made arrangements with the guide to hire one of the cars and drivers to take us.  Then as we pulled into our hotel, everyone realized that the museums were closed today.  great.  However the carpet museum was open.  It was suggested that we go there instead and get an English speaking guide to take us around and then on to Nisa.   We all wanted time to shower and change clothes so that handled, we met to go off for the afternoon.

               S2 had been to the carpet museum before so he opted to walk around and take photos while we were inside and we arranged for the driver to return for us in an hour.  Germany was with us and he also spoke Russian which was good because our driver spoke Russian but no English so Germany was busy making the return engagement arrangements with the driver.  Vancouver, Germany and I went into the museum where we were greeted by a couple of ladies who asked if we wanted a tour.  the price for admission was 13 Manat.  The price for an English speaking guide was 26 Manat - a person.  We had decided to go for the top and asked for the guide.  We are then told there is no guide available.  Gee, why ask if we want it.  As our driver had already left, we paid our 13 Manat for admission only and went into the museum and started looking at carpets.  They were quite nice with a small card next to each one that told where they were from and how big they are and how many knots but that was about it.  We go to the next room where there is a group of about 15 people with - wait for it - an English speaking guide!!!  And the next room had another group of people with an English speaking guide.  Guess they only provide guides for larger groups.  You can do the math.

                We finally go upstairs and there is a young girl standing by the railing.  I ask if she speaks English and she says a little but her command of English is just fine.  We ask some questions about some of the carpets in the room and suddenly we have our English speaking guide and she is happy to show us around some of the carpets and such and leads us to various rooms and tells us things and we didn't have to pay for it.  I would have given her a tip but by the time we were ready to leave, she had disappeared.

              Vancouver heads off to the toilets - real toilets, while Germany and I are looking at the small selection of tabletop carpets that they have for sale.  We each choose one.  We have to get certificates for anything carpet like to be able to take it out of the country.   I am walking with a stick for the arthritis and the saleslady takes Germany and my passport and the rugs onto an elevator and disappears.  Our little guide said he would get the certificates for us and not to worry that my passport would come back OK.  They thought it would be hard for me to maneuver the elevator with my walking stick?   Made me nervous.  Vancouver comes back from the toilets and we are just waiting now for our carpet certificates and Germany to return.  S2 is outside with our driver so Vancouver goes out to join him.  I am standing next to the front desk and a woman enters with a huge bag of material.  She has brought material to the ladies at the museum for them to pick out dress fabric.  I so wanted to buy some of it myself but restrained myself.  The ladies are chattering and pulling out fabric and I'm standing there like a klutz trying to ask questions but not be intrusive.  Still, it was quite interesting to watch and I got the story on how they pick fabrics, take them to a seamstress and get their dresses made.  They usually have 2 or 3 that they get a year maybe if they are in a business that allows them to spend that much on dresses.  fascinating.   Finally they whisk the bag of fabric into a back room as the head guide appears with her English speaking group to shoo them out the door.  Guess it's a no no is most cultures to conduct private business, like buying fabric, when the boss is around.

               It takes Germany about 1/2 hour getting the certificates before he appears with them and the carpets and my passport.  He says that the experience was worth the price of the carpet square ($30) because the bureaucracy he watched to get this piece of paper that one is supposed to show at the airport to leave the country was incredible.  Plus, she spelled his name wrong so had to start over on his certificate.  He signed my name since I was too feeble to go downstairs via the elevator.  They told us we would need to show the certificate at the airport and be required to pay a small fee, maybe 3 or 4 Manat or dollars, we weren't sure which.  I never did and got out of the country with my carpet.  Of course, by then, I have two large carpets in my suitcase so they weren't concerned with any small blips on the scanner.     Finally we are off to Nisa.

              Nisa is a UNESCO site.  Years ago, on my first visit, there wasn't too much there except some excavated ruins and rooms.  It appears now that they are rebuilding it but using the same techniques that were used originally so it is going quite slowly but there was quite a difference between now and when I first visited.  Many walls are back up and there are some warrens between rooms now that weren't there before.  We climb the uneven stairway to the observation tower.  Up onto the tower and we can see the Health Walk which is a walk through the hills of around 8 km.  Our tour leader says it is difficult in spots which is why we chose not to do it, out of deference for me.  But it looks interesting and supposedly you can see Iran from some of the heights of the Health Walk.   Some of our group had planned to do it.

              As we are standing on the observation platform, Vancouver gets stung by a bee and we have nothing with us to relieve it so she valiantly keeps going even though her neck is hurting.  We keep checking to make sure nothing is swelling.   Down from the platform and up the sidewalk where we meet some of our group members who are leaving.  They were the ones who had been doing the Health Walk but they tell us it was closed.  wow.  Museums and Health Walk all close on Mondays.  They tell us to find the round room inside and also someone is making bricks plus there is a big urn in one of the rooms.  Also there is a local guide who will show you things.  Unfortunately, the local guide was also leaving as we walked in and he never came back.

              We spent some time wandering around Nisa but without signs and a guide, the rooms were a best guess for us as to what they might have been used for and who lived here and everything.  Still it was quite enjoyable.  But Roomie's bee sting was hurting and it was awfully hot out there in the sun so we headed back to the hotel.  We have the evening free and tomorrow we head off to Dashoguz.

White City of the Desert grows

Our first day as a group.  there were still people arriving well into the morning to join our group.  This tour consists of people from: Argentina, U.S.A., Canada, Australia, France, Belgium but many of them live in Hong Kong, Shanghai, and Beijing.  One thing about Koryo tours, the people are always well traveled, knowledgeable, curious, willing and able to go to odd places, and love it all.  I feel like I am an extensive traveler but being around any Koryo Tours group of travelers, and I feel like a piker.  Even with well over 100 countries to my passports (with and without the Traveler's Century Club listings), I am way below the number of countries that some of these people have visited.  Inspires me to keep going!

Our program for today, Sunday, is to visit the Tolkuchka Bazaar, the Hippodrome, have lunch, then a tour of the city to include the major monuments and driving by the more interesting buildings - stopping when possible

statue in a park

.  First the Hippodrome which I did not visit on my last trip to Turkmenistan.

    There is no gambling here, or at least none that is recognized as legal and such.  I would imagine there is some friendly wagering going on somewhere.  The horses racing are Ahal Teke horses, one of three pure blood lines of horse left in the world - so we were told.  The pure bloodlines are Ahal Teke, Arabian, and one of the English draft horses but our guide didn't know which one.  how wonderful.  Ahal is a region of Turkmenistan and was also the name of the strongest tribe of olden days, as I understood it.  I am telling my narrative based on what the guide says and what people around me say so I'm willing to go on faith here and believe that the Ahal Teke horses are as pure as they come these days.  They certainly are beautiful.

We arrive at the Hippodrome and head into the stands.  There is a large contingent of students seated in front of us.  There are two rows of seats pretty much in the middle of this island of perfectly dressed young men and women and we climb into those seats.  The female students are all wearing traditional red dresses with the embroidered neck piece.  The young men are in white shirts with a traditional hat.  don't know why they are here or what exactly they are doing but the headmaster continually moves them around and sits them here and there for photos and for interviews

3 legs monument to the first president

.

the horses are at the far end of the track in a paddock loosening up before the race.  one by one they enter the track and canter past us then turn around and go back the same way before heading to the rear of the track to get into the gate.  They're off before I even realized they were all in the gate.  I was too busy watching the boys and girls.  They come charging around the corner and race past us with the camera trucks inside the rail and a large screen billboard directly across from us.  We are almost seated at the finish line.  #6 wins the first race.  As the jockey turns to come back to the winner's circle which is in front of us, two traditionally dressed men step onto the track to lead the horse back.  They are in high black boots, the white woolly hats, red jackets and tight pants.  yum.  This racing is about the horse though, not the jockey.  As soon as the jockey gets to the winner's track, he dismounts, takes his saddle and goes to weigh in and never do we see him again.  The horse parades around the winner's track for a bit and then into the circle where a couple of men with long black dusters, woolly hats and long beards come to present the horse with the winner's - wait for it - Turkmen Carpet!  very proud of these carpets they are.  The horse gets to wear the carpet back to the paddock.

we watch another race but a good many of us are watching the young men and women much more than the race and it is time for us to leave as we do have a full schedule today.  So off we go from the Hippodrome and the horses.  We will get to see some more later, much closer.  

Tolkuchka Bazaar - ah, what can I say

Independence Square

.  In 2006, the bazaar was out in the desert, several miles out of town, crowded, busy, exuberant, noisy, hot, dusty, vibrant, exciting, exotic, amazing, and fun.  everything was sold there including cars, goats, sheep, camels, blankets, rugs, dresses and clothes, food, meat, takeaway, appliances, furniture and more.  moving through that market, vendors yelled at you to come take and look and see their wares.  I know we spent a lot of time with a carpet vendor at that market and I purchased two Turkmen rugs that I still have and love and only paid roughly $300 total.  Now the market has moved and upgraded itself so that the vendors are more protected.  sunshade, concrete slabs, out of the weather and it is so much more wonderful for them.  I hated it.  All the excitement that made the earlier one so interesting was gone, gone, gone.  I am being selfish and I know it but the old market was just so much more "foreign" and wonderful and fabulous.  I felt here that I was in an outdoor outlet mall with just a few things that I might not find quite so readily at home.  I tried to find the wonderfully embroidered neck pieces for dresses and failed.  The camels are not being loaded by cranes anymore.  Didn't find any takeaway as it took a long time to walk between buildings.  and no one haggled for carpets.  we were told that it wasn't good to buy carpets here now but that we'd go to the house of the man whom they used to recommend we buy carpets - the same fellow that I bargained with in 2006 in the old market.  Oh well.  I did want to return to see what had changed.  this has really changed.  

Time for lunch and then we're off on the bus to see the city.  This is a pristine city with women sweeping the streets, trucks moving up and down watering the trees and plants (it is a desert), buildings made of white marble, golden statues, lovely avenues

Independence Square Statue

.  In short, a beautiful city that bakes in the sun.  There are many more ministerial buildings and government buildings than years ago plus they kept on with the marble and golden motif.  some buildings are not photograph-able as that is forbidden such as the presidential palace.  other buildings are just too large and grand to get into one photo.  some of the more interesting buildings:  the ministry of gas shaped like a Zippo lighter, the ministry of dentistry shaped like a rear molar, the ministry of health has a giant spike coming from the top which is representative of a syringe giving an injection.  the imagination of the architects seem to know no bounds.  beautiful buildings.  

We stop to see the "3 legs" monument.  This monument I remember being in a different place.  it is called "3 legs" because it is supported by 3 columns.  Previously the golden statue of the first president on top revolved to face the sun.  Now it is further out of town, in a wonderful park made for it, the statue doesn't revolve, and there is an honor guard at attention at the base.  We were able to go up to the observation platform for a look see of the city with is hazy with pollution.  There are trees surrounding the city but many have died in such a desert environment.  Yet they keep planting more and more trees to help the city.  doesn't appear to be working.

Next a stop at the Independence Monument which has wonderful statues surrounding it.  These statues are the founding fathers of Turkmenistan or the founding warriors or the poets and learned men who made this country way back when.  And as with most parks and monuments, there are huge water features and fountains.  In this desert country, it appears that water is one thing they have in abundance as there are fountains and pools just about whenever one turns

Ashgabat buildings

.  Water cascades down the sides of this monument.  Doesn't really help the heat though as we walk about taking photos of the different statues and views.  the heat drains me.  

couple of more stops, one to the "40 legs" monument which is a monument of 10 Ahal Teke horses (40 legs) which hasn't moved since I last saw it but seems to be different as the area around it has changed.  To get around Ashgabat, one can flag down a car and ask to be taken to anywhere for about 4 Manat (local currency) or about $2 (not quite).  The driver will say yes or no and off you go.  If you aren't in a full car, the driver might also stop for other people standing beside the road and waving for a taxi.  One way to get to the monuments is to ask for them by the number of "legs".  Last time I was here, a friend and I got a driver to take us to the "40 legs" monument of the horses.  Thus the system works.

I enjoy looking at the statues and horses and such.  there were also about 40 birds perched on the horse statues though too.  the birds did not have such a great respect for these magnificent Ahal Teke horses.    And our last stop was the Earthquake Monument.  This is close to the Presidential Palace and one of our group members was snapping away (although he is a much better photographer than just to say "snapping") when the guard at the Presidential Palace saw him and yelled and ran over to the group, made him show the guard the photos and made him delete the 4 that included the Presidential Palace

5 areas of the country and their symbols

.  Not sure why such photos are not allowed as the palace is in their coffee table books for sale.  anyway, none of us have photos of the Presidential Palace now except for some rushed ones out the bus window.

Back to our rooms and my roommate and I thought we'd rest for a bit and then have a wander downstairs, see who was there, and join them for dinner.  the resting part went well, the wander downstairs worked but nobody was to be found.  We went in the direction that we thought was the restaurant but we couldn't find it or anyone else so finally went into the City Pub restaurant where we were the only patrons.  Had a small dinner, stopped at the grocery for some water, and back to the room where we had our second night on the hardest beds ever to show up in a hotel.  Knew it meant climbing out of bed in the morning barely able to move so I found a comforter to put under my knees to help.  semi-ok sleeping after that.

Return to Turkmenistan

My second trip here.  I don't know why that seems so important to me for people to know that.   Guess I must like being well traveled and know something that others possibly don't.  So off I am to Istanbul where I have a long layover.  Gatwick was not spectacular as when I walked into the business class lounge, she immediately sent me downstairs to a different lounge.  No one was at the door so I went in and started getting some snacks.  Just as I was getting my second dish as they had nothing but tiny bowls and I wanted some cheese, a lady asks me for my "card". opps.  This lounge was a card lounge for people who have paid to get a card to get into the lounge.  I argue with her as I tell her the lounge upstairs is closed (that's what the lady said when she sent me downstairs) and I was told to come here.  The downstairs lounge lady is having none of it but to her credit, she says I will take you upstairs.  So I get my bag and leave my food and up we go, back where I was, and she  goes to the desk and tells that lady that I am a business class passenger and should be allowed into this lounge.

Well, what a difference now.  The business class lounge lady is all apologetic and takes my boarding pass and apologizes profusely for sending me downstairs all the while exclaiming that she thought I was a "card" person and not a business class person, as if a "card" person is not as good.  geez.  Do I look like I am poor and not able to buy a business class ticket or perhaps I look shady and will buy a card to get into a lounge, any lounge, rather than sit out in the main airport with the masses???  Hard to tell but now I am in and the lounge is quite nice.  They have just reopened it and there are food stations everywhere with drink corners everywhere and internet passwords everywhere as well.  I find a drink but am not hungry so I just sit down in front of a flight board and read and email my hubby.  And then off to Istanbul and into their lounge as I have nothing I need or want at any of the shops.

My flight doesn't leave until 1 a.m. but as I am sitting there, I realize it is 12:10 a.m. and then 12:20 a.m. and my flight has not come up on the board.  Then I think that possibly it is on a board out in the main section so I'd better start walking.    At 12:30 I am leaving the lounge when my flight comes up on the board at gate 504 which is a ways to go.  But as I am nearing my destination, I can see a large group of people in front of me and it appears that they are in front of gate 503 but I can see then that they are being blocked and are being let into the area around 504 just a few at a time and there also appears to be a lot of people shouting and running around and the officials are going through bags and carry-ons of the Turkmens.  Gosh I had forgotten how boisterous and loud and pushy and colorful the Turkmens are. 

I get in the queue but the trick to being in a Turkmen queue is to just keep inching your way forward.  You don't have to stay behind the same person,  just keep inching.  They are running in and out of the line and each time someone leaves the line, I inch forward a bit more until they come back and find me in their spot and then they inch into the line. A man approaches me and asks me to carry something on board for him.  Excuse me but while the business class lounge workers may think I am a yokel and not worthy of their lounge, I was not born yesterday and I am not carrying anything on board for anyone.

Before I have gotten to the front of the line, a woman pushes past me and yells at the guy holding up the queue.  He tells her something and suddenly a bunch of people are going around the queue and in the other side.  The lady standing next to me is kind and tells me that the new fast line is for transit passengers of which I am one so I get in right away and also meet the lady from Amsterdam whom is traveling into Turkmenistan on the same flight.  It now only takes us a few minutes to get checked into the area and we go past the people who are still wrapping up packages and getting them unwrapped by the officials and so forth.  But that just puts us on a bus which eventually goes out to the plane.  Amsterdam and I talk and she thinks I have just come with my carry-on bag but we assure each other that we have checked luggage.

Onto the plane and the business class seats are much smaller.  The Turkmens are crowding on board and the women in their colorful dresses and bright headscarves are yelling down the aisle whenever anyone takes too long putting away their luggage.  The men are barely smiling but I see several that have the solid line of gold teeth across the front.  What a colorful country.

Finally we are off and I try to sleep for most of the flight and get a bit of sleep.  We are late landing as we were late leaving but once we are down, people are up and getting stuff out of the bins before we have left the runway so they get yelled at and sit back down.  Once we are parked, they are up and pushing to get into the front of the plane and get off but I am good at blocking. 

We pile off the plane and have to climb steps, walk down along corridor, down steps and into the area which I recognize from before but they have expanded.  Before, I believe there was one common area for foreigners and nationals alike.  This time, the foreigners went to the left and the nationals to the right.  Since I was close to the front, I went right to the cashier to pay my entry fee and also I had my visa.  Then back to the immigration officer with my passport and visa and he looked at the receipt for my entry fee and he stamps me into the country.

I go to the baggage claim area and nothing is happening, not even a squeak.  Several times, men open the door and look in but nothing.  I notice that the columns are marked 3 and 4 whereas last time, all the luggage came into this room and it was a mess.  I'm thinking that it makes much more sense for them to deliver the luggage to the nationals side of things and as no nationals are coming into our side, I'm thinking gotta figure out a way to get to the other side.    Somebody with the language skills asks and he directs him to the other side which means we pass by the customs exit and then into a room exactly like ours with 1 and 2 on the columns and I see my bag sitting on the belt.  yea.  My bag made it.  Last time I was here, there was one flight a week from Beijing and one lady 's bag didn’t make it.  She picked it up in Beijing on her way home. 

I go ahead and exit rather than waiting for Amsterdam and I should have waited.  As I exit customs, I pass by a lot of men offering taxi service but I see a man with our names on it and go wait with him but he doesn't speak much English or won't admit that he does

In a few minutes Amsterdam comes out of the area but she does not have a suitcase with her and she comes up to me and said she went to the wrong side (the national side) and when she got to the front of the line, they told her she had to go to the other side so that made her last plus she didn't have a visa yet and had to get a visa which is an extra step.  I ask her where her bag is and she doesn't know because she thought it would be out here.  She never saw the entrance into the other side of the hall, past the customs officers and just exited.  Luckily, for once, the customs people must have this happen more often than not so they let her back into the area to retrieve her bag.  She comes out again in a bit.

To the hotel through a  bright and sun shining Ashgabat which looks familiar.  If anything, there are more buildings of the white marble.  I see Independence Square which looks the same but I cannot see any of the other statues that were so famously identified with the Turkmenbasy in 2006.  We get to the hotel before long and check in.  The lady tells us that breakfast is being served so I dash up to my room to change shirts and clean up a bit before meeting Amsterdam for breakfast where she is eating with a man from Argentina who might be on our trip.  I don't have a complete list of participants.  I thought Amsterdam wanted to go out right away but she says she needs to sleep for awhile so back to the room for a shower and some rest.

I did this for awhile and then got really sleepy too.  Usually I do not take a rest when I arrive somewhere as it really makes you more tired but not having any luck so fell asleep.  get a phone call to the room around 11 and it's Simon, our leader with Koryo Tours and my roommate has arrived.  There is only one key so she is coming up.  she's from Vancouver and so that's what I'll call her in this missive. 

It's very good to see her even though we only spent about 5 or 6 days together in total on another trip years ago to DPRK and China and Vladivostok.  She has the magic code for the internet and I am able to log in and get a facebook posted because I like to do check ins so my friends know i am somewhere exotic.  Able to get an email off to my hubby too but that's about it.  she freshens up a bit and ten we go out because I need to get some Manet, the local currency and we both need to get some water.

the hotel clerk tells us the bank is across the street but to go around to the back.  It's a big magnificent bank building and what looks like an ATM at the front but we dutifully go around the back which means walking into an alley which looks a parking lot but there is an open door and we head towards it and it is an exchange office.  I go in and exchange a couple of hundred which I’m sure will be diddled away in drinks and tips and meals. 

Next we are going to head towards the Russian bazaar and get some water but we got distracted by the park.  it has a lovely water feature right down the middle of the park with bridges over the water and then statues every 30 yards or so of some of their founding father kind of people.  we walk up one side, stopping to take photos of each statue and then Vancouver spots a couple of people that were on the flight with her, from Australia, who  come over to meet me and we then cross the bridge and head back towards the Russian bazaar.  Luckily I do remember how to get there.  It is bustling as usual and we walk in and get some photos and then find some water after we have been stopped by a date block vendor.  Not exactly sure what it is, involves dates, but sort of like maybe a date syrup that has been pressed into a block.  You need a knife to cut anything off of it to eat it.  Then some water and we are managing to get some change as we go.  a few people let me take their photos but more people are saying no which I respect.  We figure we need a knife of some kind to cut the date block and Vancouver has also purchased some lemons for her throat.  It is quite hot and I don't think I brought sun tan lotion so we hit various shops and booths until we find both.  I'm a bit hungry so it's off to the British Pub which is the only place I know around here to eat and drink.  The Aussies were already there with their first brew and some ciggies so we sat at the table next to them.  Vancouver rushes over to give them a taste of the date block but no sooner does Aussie get it in her mouth that they look at the block and see worms wriggling on the surface!  ewwww. 

I have Russian dumplings and Vancouver has an omelet and we sit for a long time talking and catching up.  She finally says she needs a couple of hours sleep before dinner.  It is 32C outside and feels every bit at least that hot!  We head back to our cool room which luckily has a working AC.  Tonight we will meet the group for dinner